Garden Bed FAQ
Garden Bed Frequently Asked Questions
The team at Produce Denver has decades of experience building and maintaining garden beds in the Denver Metro Area. Our experts are here to answer some of the most common questions about backyard gardening in raised beds.
Do you have more questions about gardening in raised beds on the front range of Colorado? Book an initial consultation for one of our experts to visit your home and help you optimize your gardening efforts.
The climate on the front range can be fantastic for growing tomatoes, peppers, green beans, zucchini, squash and many other of your favorite vegetables.
Depending on where you live in Colorado, you can plant any crop on the Front Range if you plan ahead. I've planted tumeric and ginger keeping them under hoophouses or small cold frames, or planted long season crops such as watermelon starting them early covered and harvested in October for a sweet fruit!
Depending on what you have and where you live it's a safe bet to plant your warm summer plants around June 1st. A lot of people wait till Mother's Day but it usually snows! I recommend waiting until early June unless you live on the Western Slope or Southern Colorado. And always watch the 10 day forecast. Always have a plan to cover your plants for severe weather! Early summer hail storms can devastate a healthy garden.
Depending on the space, I like to build either 3-4 ft wide beds so that I can easily get to each side of bed. I have found that it is most economical to use 8 ft. cedar boards because they last the longest (20-30 years). I like to have 3 ft. pathways so that I can use a wheelbarrow around the beds
1. Getting bulk soil may save you money, but there there may be some problems:
- Most bulk soils at landscaping companies are not fully cured or may be hot. You should not plant directly into the soil but give it time to cool down. Water it well and make sure it is not warm when planting into it.
- Get a soil test result of the soil.
- Most of the bulk soil from companies will have soil test results that they can send you. You want to make sure that the salts are not too high. If your location is limited on access for good soil, sometimes you may have to amend the existing soil.
- I use bulk soil for jobs that use cattle manure and have high salts and high Ph. I add gypsum (calcium sulfate) to flush the salts and lower the Ph. This only works for soil that does not have free lime.
- A lot of bagged soils for raised beds already have perlite or other amendments added to it so that it drains well and allows air in the soil for plants. If you get a bulk soil that doesn't drain, add perlite or bags of coco fiber to allow your soil to drain while adding moisture retention.
A lot of people think that adding gravel to the bottom of your bed may help with drainage but this is a myth. In fact, the abrupt change in space actually creates a boundary line that affects the movement of water, air, and root movement. This is called Texture interface. It is best practice to dig into the native soil with the added soil so there is a better transition.
Depending on where you live in Colorado, I love growing Arugula and spinach on the Front Range!
You want to fill the bed all the way to the top as your new soil will generally settle 6 inches throughout the season.
We like to add drip and spray to our garden beds with shut offs to each line to allow maximum versatility. I use micro sprayers when germinating seeds such as spinach or lettuces that I broadcasted with seed. When the plants are more mature, I shut off the sprayers and use the drip. I use drip for transplants such as tomatoes and change the watering time throughout the season.